I See You! (free crochet pattern)

Yeah, yeah, yeah...I know it's been a while since I've treated you to a new, free pattern, but I plan to make up for it. The prototypes for the book are basically made. The rough drafts of all the patterns are written. All that's left is a bit of spit and polish, and a whole lot of high quality picture taking. Until then, you get to reap the benefits of a newly finished project:

The Blog Collection

Eyeglasses Case

Supplies:

small amount of Color A

small amount of Color B

size G (5.0 mm) crochet hook

smaller hook or yarn needle for weaving in ends

Note: All instructions are in American terms. This pattern is worked in the round which may make your beginning stitch travel (as when working amigurumi). Instructions are given at the best places to correct stitch position so that color changes are obscured. There is no need to join and ch1 at the end/beginning of each round.

ch 15 w/Color A

Round 1: sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn, sc in unused loop of each ch across (28 sts here and throughout)

Round 2: sc in each st around

Rounds 3-10: repeat Round 2

Lay your project flat. If your last stitch is not at the side of the pouch, add or remove stitches until it is. Change to Color B.

Round 11: sc in each st around

Round 12: sc in BLO of each st around

Round 13: rep Round 12

Round 14: [sc in BLO of next st, dc in BLO of next st] rep around

Round 15: [dc in BLO of next st, sc in BLO of next st] rep around

Note: Yes, at the end of Round 14/beginning of Round 15, you will work two dc side by side.

Round 16: [sc in BLO of next st, dc in BLO of next st] rep around

Note: Yes, at the end of Round 15/beginning of Round 16, you will work two sc side by side.

Round 17: rep Round 15

Round 18: rep Round 16

Round 19: sc in BLO of each st around

Rounds 20-21: rep Round 19

Lay your project flat. If your last stitch is not at the side of the pouch, add or remove stitches until it is. Change to Color A.

Round 22: sc in each st around

Rounds 23-24: sc in each st around

Stop here and slide your glasses into the pouch. You should have about ½" of space from the top of the glasses to the end of the case so your glasses don't easily slip out on their own. If not, continue to add rounds of sc until you do.

Lay your project flat. If your last stitch is not at the side of the pouch, add or remove stitches until it is.

Optional Hanging Loop: join w/sl st in next st, ch 10, join w/ sl st in same st, sl st in each ch back to first ch

Optional Button Closure: Find the middle front of your project and mark it for attaching your button. Find the corresponding stitch on the back of the project and mark it for the button loop.

sc in each st stopping at marked st on back of project, ch12, attach in same st w/sl st, sl st in each ch around loop, sc in next st and each st around

finish off, weave in ends

This pattern has been tested only by me. If you find a mistake, please leave it in the comments below and I will make the necessary corrections. If you need help, feel free to post any questions in the comments and I will get to them asap.

Any pattern I design and post here is my property. Please do not duplicate my patterns for any reason especially to sell. Instead, please link to my blog or to the pattern page when referencing one of my patterns.

You are more than welcome to offer finished items made from my patterns for sale. I see no reason why you should not profit from your hard work. However, I'd really appreciate it if you gave me credit for the design; please reference my blog or the pattern page.

If you do make any of my patterns, I'd love to see your finished items; please feel free to email pictures to me.

BigGirlJewelry@yahoo.com

Happy Crocheting!

Get a Grip (Free Pattern/Tutorial for Windmill Bag Shoulder Straps)

click to see the ravelry project
which will take you to the pattern

I get very excited about crocheting handbags because when I make one for myself I use it . . . a lot. That said, this method of putting straps on a bag came from some trial and error while making the two other bags pictured in this post. I'm really proud of them, though, so I MUST show them off to you. I'm so emotionally attached to these bags that when I first made one or the other, I slept with it under my pillow. I still have, and use, both of them.

All three bags were made from yarn seconds which might otherwise have been discarded. Further, the Hakelbeutel used squares that I made to test a pattern for another designer, which I doubt I would have used for anything else had I not come across that pattern. Add to that the shapes of those two bags actually inspired this series, and you now get a glimpse into my own creative process.

Enough with the background information; let's get to work.

If you've followed my Windmill Bag pattern, you've now got a sack with four points at the top. Each point should be 17 stitches high and this pattern can simply be followed as a pattern to give you a finished bag. You could also use this pattern as a tutorial for adding straps to your hakelbeutel. Simply adapt the stitch count to fit the bag you're working.

The finished straps end up being a bit over an inch wide (just a bit wider than 4 rows of sc). And the top border is just a hair wider than the straps (5 rows of sc). This method makes two very long shoulder straps as shown in the picture of the finished bag. Feel free to adjust to your preference.

Finishing the Windmill Bag

Supply Note: For a full list of supplies, consult the original pattern for the Blog Collection Windmill Bag.

Design Note: Rounds are worked continuously so as not to show joins.

Place stitch markers at each of the four peaks of the bag. You may wish to mark the four valleys (lowest points) of the bag and your very first stitch as well (whatever you need to do to make it easier to identify these key spots). Make sure bag is turned right side out.

Straps

Round 1: beginning at any peak, join w/sc in 11th st, sc in each of next 6 sts, [sc in end st of each row (for a count of 17), *2sc in next st, sc in each of next 16 sts] 3 times, sc in end of each row (for a count of 17), *2sc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts (140 sc)

*Move stitch markers to the first sc in the 2sc. This becomes your new peak.

Round 2: sc in 1st st and in next 5, [sk next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, *3sc in next st, sc in next 16 sts] 3 times, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts (140 sc)

*Move stitch markers to the center sc in the 3sc. This becomes your new peak.

Round 3 (first round of straps): sc in 1st st and in next 4, [sk next 2 stst, sc in next 17 sts (last st should be in a marked st--do not move marker), ch 90, being careful not to twist ch sk next 34 sts, sc in next sc (this should be your next marked st--do not move marker)], sc in next 16 sts, rep from [ to ], sc in next 11 sts

Round 4: sc in next 4 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, sc in each loop of ch (just as you would if beginning a pattern), sc in next 16 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, sc in each loop of ch, sc in next 12 sts

Round 5: sc in next 3 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 14, sk next st, sc across single row (next 90 sts), sk next st, sc in next 14 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, sk next st, sc across single row, sk next st, sc in next 14 sts, sc in next 11 sts

join w/sl st in 1st st of Round 5, fo, weave in ends

the blog collection
windmill bag

Front and back openings

lay bag with unfinished portion facing you, attach yarn with sc at marked st to the right

Round 1: sc in next 16 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 17 sts, sc in rem loops of ch across (next 90 sts)

Round 2: sc in next 15 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 15 sts, sk next st, sc in each sc of strap

sk next st, sc in next 14 sts, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, join, finish off, weave in ends

Repeat for opposite side of bag.

Design note: Although the pattern and tutorial for the panels and assembly have been tested, the pattern for the straps has not. I plan to remake the bag very soon, so I will be testing it myself. If you find mistakes, feel free to let me know in the comments below and I will make corrections as soon as possible.

Believe it or not, I used a very similar method to make the straps for the shell bag because the original called for a store bought handle. I prefer a long shoulder strap so the bag itself is not in my way and so it can be easily hung on the back of a chair.

All bags pictured were crocheted using Pisgah Peaches and Creme yarn seconds, 100% cotton, which is no longer available. However, the company was purchased by Lily, the makers of Sugar and Cream, and another yarn I highly recommend.

Happy Crocheting!

click to see the ravelry project which will also lead to the original pattern

Trick or Treat? (free crochet pattern)

I've been thrilled that Halloween fell on a Monday this year. That gave me one extra day to get this pattern to you. I needed it. As it is, I believe this one's going to need a revision. It has not been tested unless you count my prototype. I'd normally go for a beanie style, but this one decided not to work up that way. I kinda' like the bucket shape, so I plan to rework it as a beanie and post that later in the season (which means maybe January). So tell me... How are you all spending your Halloween?

Big Girl Hat #1

Supplies needed:

about 4 oz. (180-190 yds.) worsted weight yarn

size I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook for main body

size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook for band

yarn needle or smaller size hook for weaving in ends

All instructions use American terminology and standard abbreviations.

Special Stitches:

front post double crochet (fpdc)--yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back to front), yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through remaining 2 loops

back post double crochet (bpdc)--yo, insert hook around post of stitch (from back to front to back), yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through remaining 2 loops

Construction note:

The term join, as used in this pattern means join with slip stitch in first stitch of round.

You will notice that I don't not instruct you to join at the end of every round. I found it easier to work the body of the pattern in continuous rounds. This prevents having a visible seam up the back of your hat. If you choose to join at each round, begin the next round with a ch1, even when that round begins with a dc, until you're instructed to ch3 when working the band.

Round 1:  using magic ring method, 12 sc in ring, pull ring tight to close gap (12 sc)

Round 2:  2sc in each st around (24 sc)

Round 3:  sc in each st around (24 sc)

Round 4:  [2sc in next st, sc in next st] around (36 sc)

Round 5:  sc in each sc around (36 sc)

Round 6:  [2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around (48 sc)

Round 7:  sc in each sc around (48 sc)

Round 8:  [2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] around (60 sc)

Round 9:  sc in each sc around (60 sc)

Round 10:  [2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] around (72 sc)

Round 11:  sc in each sc around (72 sc)

Round 12:  [2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] around (84 sc)

Round 13:  sc in each sc around (84 sc)

Round 14:  in back loop only, sc in each sc around (84 sc)

Round 15:  repeat Round 14

Round 16:  in back loop only [sc in next st, dc in next st] (84 sts)

Round 17:  in back loop only [dc in next st, sc in next st] (84 sts)

Round 18:  repeat Round 16

Round 19:  repeat Round 17

Round 20:  repeat Round 16

Round 21:  in back loop only sc in each st around (84 sts)

Round 22-23:  repeat Round 21

Round 24:  sc in each sc around (84 sts)

Rounds 25-29:  repeat Round 24, join at end of Round 29 (84 sts)

switch to smaller hook

Round 30:  ch3, dc in each st around, join (84 sts)

Round 31:  ch2, [fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st], join (84 sts)

Rounds 32-33:  rep Round 31

finish off, weave in ends

I still hope to find time enough to post the matching mittens in time for Christmas gift-giving, but the way my schedule looks right now, that is pretty unlikely. I hope you all enjoy the scarf and hat as much as I enjoyed making them. As always, if you run into any mistakes in the pattern, please email me or leave a comment and I will fix them. And please, don't share the pattern. I prefer you share the link. For further information on that, see the bottom of the page where I've posted "Da Roolz."

Happy Halloween!

[Added 10/27/12]: If you would like to receive a pdf of this, or any of my other hat patterns at no charge, go here.

Tweet Me a Yarn

100 grammi pattern by Cristiana

It's your project. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide how you want it to look. You choose the project. You choose the yarn. You choose needle or hook size. And together, the combination produces a finished product unique to you. But sometimes we need a bit of guidance to nudge us in one direction or another.

This is where I find Twitter so useful. "Huh?" I hear you thinking, "How is Twitter going to help you choose a project?" I doesn't HAVE to be Twitter. That just happens to be my social networking medium of choice. You see, I've got some great pals (tweeps) who help me make these decisions. Even if I don't take their advice about yarn choices for certain patterns, their opinions help me to refine my own idea of how I want a finished object to look.

Here's what happened: Not so long ago I stocked up on yarn including a few styles just for me. Most of what I buy is just worsted weight cotton that I use for pattern writing/samples, but I splurged just a little this time. One of the yarns I bought is Dazzling Diamonds by Elmore Pisgah, the original makers of Peaches & Creme. It is absolutely beautiful, but I had no idea what I'd use it for. I knew it wouldn't be crochet since these hands can't handle crocheting with such fine yarns, but exactly what did I want to knit? That's where Twitter came in. Last night I finished my latest knitting project (check it out) and I've been really wanting to find something for the Dazzling Diamonds. About the same time, my pal Melissa was playing online and tweeting and emailing her discoveries to me. Now Melissa doesn't knit, but she knows I do and she sent me a gorgeous shawl pattern which got my wheels turning. I sent her a tweet asking her to keep her eyes open for anything that might do the Dazzling Diamonds justice. She suggested I hit Ravelry and search the projects made with the yarn. (Now why didn't I think of that?) Although the search didn't turn up anything useful, it did begin a conversation. Melissa and I went back and forth for a bit and I tweeted a couple of links to her. While she didn't actually make the choice for me, having her eyes helped me to further refine my own idea for what I wanted for the two projects I ultimately chose.

Here they are: Claire by Lynn Anne Banks in Dazzling Diamonds pale pink and Flit 'n Float by Birdy Evans in Honeysuckle cotton (fingering) baby blue

I realised through all of this how reliant I've become on social media because of my craft. You see, I have exactly ZERO local friends who are needlecrafters, so when it comes to bouncing ideas off of other knitters or crocheters, I automatically take to Twitter where I can contact a bunch at once. We share projects, ideas, yarn sites. We offer opinions, encouragement, instruction. But most of all, we're friends. I'd love to have them all right here in Boston with me, but that would mean I'd have to get out of my pajamas to see them. I guess I'll stick with Twitter until the next best thing comes along.

Talk to me. . . When you need input, where do you turn?

You've Waited So Patiently: Free Crochet Pattern

When I posted the free pattern for the Big Girl Dish Scrubby last month I really didn't expect it to be such a hit.  To date, it has received 106 hearts and it's in 26 queues!  More than that, it's brought some very positive attention to my other patterns and I can now support my yarn habit without tapping into an already too tight budget.  So, rather than simply say thank you to the many folks who had their crochet hooks in helping me do this, I offer a gesture of thanks:

A short while ago I promised matching pieces and I've finally set down to keep that promise.  So, with no further ado, I offer the Free Big Girl Kitchen Towel.....and a tease.  The tease is a work in progress and will be my next free pattern offered here.  You'll see it in a couple of the pics in this post.

All instructions use American terminology and standard abbreviations.

Supplies Needed:

about 5-6 oz. of worsted weight cotton yarn (that's about 3 balls of Peaches n Creme or Lily Sugar n Cream)

size I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

one button about 1 1/4" in diameter

yarn needle and/or traditional sewing needle for attaching button and weaving in ends

stitch markers or scraps of yarn for row counting (optional)

Special Stitches Used:

single crochet decrease (sc dec) -- insert hook into both loops of first stitch being worked, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into both loops of next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook

double triple crochet (dtrc) -- yo 3 times, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 4 times

ch 48

Row 1:  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn (47 sc)

Row 2:  ch1, sc in 1st sc, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] rep to end, turn (47 sts)

Row 3:  ch1, sc in 1st sc and 1st ch1 sp, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next ch1 sp] rep to end, sc in last st, turn (47 sts)

Row 4:  ch1, sc in 1st sc, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next ch1 sp] rep across ending w/ sc in last sc, turn (47 sts)

Row 5:  rep Row 3

Row 6:  ch1, sc in 1st sc and in each sc and ch1 sp across, turn (47 sc)

Row 7:  ch1, working in back loops only sc in each st across, turn (47 sc)

Row 8:  ch1, working in front loops only sc in each st across, turn (47 sc)

Row 9:  rep Row 7

Row 10:  ch1, working in front loops only sc in 1st sc, [dc in next st, sc in next st] rep to end, turn (47 sts)

Row 11:  ch1, working in back loops only sc in 1st sc, [sc in next dc, dc in next sc] rep across ending w/sc in last sc, turn (47 sts)

Row 12:  ch1, working in front loops only sc in 1st sc, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] rep across ending w/sc in last sc, turn (47 sts)

Rows 13-14:  rep Rows 11-12

Row 15:  ch1, working in back loops only sc in each st across, turn (47 sc)

Row 16:  ch1, working in front loops only sc in each st across, turn (47 sc)

Rows 17-18:  rep Rows 15-16

Row 19:  ch1, sc in 1st sc, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] rep to end, turn (47 sts)

Row 20:  ch1, sc in 1st sc and 1st ch1 sp, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next ch1 sp] rep to end, sc in last st, turn (47 sts)

Row 21:  ch1, sc in 1st sc, [ch1, sk next sc, sc in next ch1 sp] rep across ending w/ sc in last sc, turn (47 sts)

Rows 22-59:  rep Rows 20-21

Row 60:  ch1, sc in each sc and ch1 sp across, turn (47 sc)

Row 61:  ch1, sc dec 12 times, sc in next st, sc dec 11 times, turn (24 sts)

Row 62:  ch1, sc dec 12 times, turn (12 sts)

Row 63:  ch1, sc dec 6 times, turn (6 sts)

Row 64:  ch1, sc in each st across, turn (6 sts)

Rows 65-81:  repeat Row 64

Note:  Before proceeding, you may wish to fit your hanging loop to the place where you'd like it to hang.  If worked as instructed it will fit the average drawer pull or oven door handle.  If you need to add length simply continue repeating Row 64 as necessary.

Row 82:  ch3 (counts as dc), trc in next st, dtrc in next 2 sts, trc in next st, dc in next st, turn (6 sts)

Note:  The space between the two dtrc is your buttonhole.

Row 83:  ch1, sc in each of 1st 2 sts, 2sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts

Finishing Round:  beginning with last stitch in which you worked, sc around working 3 sc in corners and stopping at Row 82, join w/sl st in 1st sc of Row 83, fo, weave in ends

Attaching button:  Fold end of narrow strip and attach button at desired position making sure that the hanging loop made by this fold allows enough room for you to hang your towel where you wish to hang it.  Take care to attach the button loosely enough that there is sufficient space behind it for the thickness of your fabric.

 

Note:  This pattern has not been tested.  I made it; I wrote it; I'm posting it; done.  If you find any mistakes or have suggestions for clarification, please email me or leave a comment here (preferred).

About my work:


Any pattern I design and post here is my property. Please do not duplicate my patterns for any reason especially to sell. Instead, please link to my blog or to the pattern page when referencing one of my patterns.

You are more than welcome to offer finished items made from my patterns for sale. I see no reason why you should not profit from your hard work. However, I'd really appreciate it if you gave me credit for the design; please reference my blog or the pattern page.

If you do make any of my patterns, I'd love to see your finished items; please feel free to email pictures to me.

If you are not interested in making your own pieces, I occasionally offer finished items in my shops on Etsy and Bonanzle. I also welcome special orders, so email me and let's work together.

BigGirlJewelry@yahoo.com

Pattern Testing and Comedy Don't Mix

I've recently become hooked on ravelry.com (yeah, I couldn't resist) which is where I stumbled upon an extremely talented designer by the name of Donna Mason-Svara aka SmoothFox. Her blog and Etsy and Ravelry shops are packed with gorgeous patterns, mostly for motif squares. Her patterns are beautiful and versatile....Can you tell I'm a fan? I like to crochet motif squares to use as luxury washcloths for gift baskets, so I'm always on the lookout for squares that look great on their own and don't need to be part of a larger piece. That said, I must have about 200 total patterns saved on my hard drive and at least as many bookmarks, yet I continue to search for new and exciting items to crochet.

I began following Donna's blog shortly after I began writing this one. When I saw she was looking for testers for her newest pattern, I jumped at the chance to be one of them. The picture of her finished piece tugged at my heart. It was one of those projects I didn't just need to do; I needed to do it NOW! Little did I know....

As an experienced crocheter, I'm used to simply working through patterns at a breakneck pace. If there's a mistake in the pattern that I catch, I usually make a note on the pattern page (if I've even bothered to print the pattern) in case I ever make it again, then it's forgotten; I move on. When there's someone counting on you to edit a pattern, you must be more diligent. You're not just throwing together a quick project; you're helping someone fine tune their hard work.

Don't get me wrong, I found my experience testing Donna's two newest patterns to be invaluable as well as rewarding. I decided to offer my services (read that I would have BEGGED to test this pattern) because I had become quite a fan very quickly.

*Donna's patterns may be found on her blog: http://smoothfoxlover.blogspot.com/ and in her Etsy shop http://www.etsy.com/shop/SmoothFox*

I was smart about the first pattern I worked for her; I started in a quiet spot with no distractions because she warned that she had written the pattern "late one night" and she expected it may contain a lot of errors. Before I even began, I received another email with corrections for the first three rows. Okay, weeeeeelllll, we're off!

Because acrylic can be quicker and easier to work with than cotton, I opted to use an inexpensive, plain, white, worsted weight acrylic (Caron One Pound) so I could focus on the pattern rather than dealing with the friction and splitting sometimes associated with cotton yarns. Sure enough, there were several errors to be corrected, one of which was a simple omission that threw off an entire round. All in all, with interruptions and stretch breaks, It took me about four or five hours to complete one 12" square.

I was diligent about taking notes through the process so I wouldn't miss any subtleties that may not have affected me, but might throw off a newbie. I emailed her a few times as I crocheted and then when I finished so she'd have my input and my thoughts would be fresh. While I took my duty seriously, let's be real; it's just yarn. We may not be saving lives, but we may as well get it right.

The next day, I opened all the shades to let some light into the dining room and took a few shots of my finished project. I must say I was pretty darn proud of myself because it looked as good as Donna's original did. It also surprised me that the white photographed so well. I was able to get a nice clear shot in just daylight. Of course, being the Queen of Dumb Mistakes, I sent the email saying "look what I did!" without first attaching the photos..... DUH!

I wasn't really sure what I would do with the finished piece. There were quite a few possibilities that I toyed with including just taking it apart and reusing the yarn. In fact, the first photos I sent to Donna showed a loop still in the end of the square because I hadn't finished off the last row and woven in the end. It wasn't until Donna emailed me asking for a picture with the end hidden that I decided I definitely wanted to keep the square and expand on the project.

*Possible ideas for expanding on this square included:

-making 11 more and turning it into an afghan

-making 4 or 5 more and turning it into a scarf

-making 11 more different squares and making a sampler afghan*

A day later, I set to making the square one more time using the most recently revised version of the pattern that I received that morning from Donna. I really wanted to make this one in cotton because I've been using cotton almost exclusively lately and I saw so much potential for color in this pattern. I wasn't sure how much yarn I'd need for the cotton version and I liked the idea of mixing neutrals, so I pulled out a new ball of Soft Ecru and a new ball of Terra Firma (a variegated brown) by Lily Sugar 'n Cream. I was able to breeze through this one in just about 1 1/2 hours with no problems at all and not much left of those two balls of yarn. I loved the finished product; it turned out better than I expected. I was so excited to send the photo of it to Donna and even more excited to see it posted in her blog. (You'll find more of the finished squares and the free pattern here: http://smoothfoxlover.blogspot.com/2010/07/testers-pictures-of-foxs-amethyst.html)

And then it happened (queue the ominous music): Donna posted a request for testers again, this time for her "Ripple Star Square." Uh, oh. You guessed it... Thankfully, Donna still needed testers when I contacted her. The center star looked more like a snowflake, I thought, so I wanted to accentuate that point by doing the center star in white and surrounding it in rounds of red, white, and hot green.

I set about crocheting in my more standard way: butt on the sofa, laptop on the coffee table with the pattern on screen, and the TV on. This turned out to be a mistake for several reasons. First, my friend and I started watching Comedy Central at about 8:30 p.m. Jeff Dunham was on (I ADORE Jeff Dunham). Turned out they were having some sort of stand-up marathon for the holiday weekend. Second, I read through the pattern and THOUGHT I was following it to the letter, but I kept stopping to laugh, so I didn't make very good time. Third, I was wired on caffeine and determined to finish this block before I went to bed. I finished shortly after 1:00 a.m.

Except for a minor miscount of stitches, I found no mistakes in the pattern. (I did, by the way, reread it after I finished because I knew I'd been somewhat distracted as I worked.) I made one color change as I crocheted. If you look at the photo of my finished square, you'll see that the last round is white. Originally this was to be red, but I got about half way around and decided red/green/red made the square look too much like a man's tube sock, so I started at the next corner with white to see which I preferred. Needless to say, I ended up ripping out the red and finishing in white. In hindsight, the only thing I would change about the color choices is that I would use red where I used green and vice versa. I think the center star/snowflake would pop more if surrounded by red.

*When I finished making the center motif, I laid it out and thought it would make a great pot holder, so that may be my next project.*

I emailed photos of the finished square to Donna this morning who was concerned, after examining those pictures, that she'd made a mistake in the instructions. You see, I misread the instructions and my long double crochets in row 6 aren't long enough. Darn you, Jeff Dunham and Peanut! Darn you Larry the Cable Guy! Oh well, as I said before, we're not saving lives here; it's just yarn.